I have recently featured two new Camcorders aimed at the Broadcast TV and high end Video markets, but right now the Sony HVR-Z1 still dominates the self-shooting TV biz in the UK.

Learning how to shoot well on the Z1 is essential to get ahead in TV these days, even when new cameras like the Z5, Z7 or EX1 start appearing in Production Companies, skills learned on the Z1 can be applied across the Sony range.

When the newer Sony models become first choice on shoots, the Z1 will turn into a recce camera or a second Lock off camera - so it’s still worth investing time to learn how to use it properly.

If Web Video is your niche then look out for TV people wanting to upgrade by selling their Z1’s at decent prices. Although it doesn’t record onto Memory Cards (DV tapes ony) the Z1 is still a quality camera to shoot sparkling Videos. It’s also a camera favoured by Social Videographers and Wedding Videomakers.

This little video below shows the quality of the footage you can squeeze out of the Z1, clearly whoever made it is head over heels with his Z1, likes girls in flower filled baths, but sadly has no taste in music.

So Jules we’re in a rush give us the tips! Here are  a few essentials for better Z1 shooting I have picked up over several years of self-shooting for broadcast TV shows. You can apply these tips to many other pro and semi-pro DV cameras.

1. Always check the Autofocus lever is OFF - The switch is easily knocked and during a hectic shoot I have known people film for hours before realising the Autofocus is on. When you are shooting wides and fast action it’s possible not to realise what’s going on. It’s only when you frame a talking head and notice that the camera keeps focussing on the background not the subject when the focus error is noticed.

The Autofocus, unlike you, has no brains and will focus on the dominant area of the frame, so you get a perfectly focussed flower pot in the background whilst your interviewee will be unusably soft.  It can really ruin your rushes. You can always tape the lever down to stop it being knocked.

2. Love your Zebras - Zebra pattern is a method to visualize the overexposed areas of an image. In the Camcorder’s LCD screen, areas that are overexposed will show Zebra stripes. Most professional Camerapeople I work with use Zebras so I am often surprised when Z1 users don’t. The usual excuse is that they make focussing harder but that’s often because users are relying too much on the flip out screen (see point 3 below.) I always advise flicking on the Zebra lever and setting levels in the menu to 70%. When you are shooting you should expose so you see a small ammount of Zebra pattern on skin tone. If in doubt it’s always better to slightly underexpose than overexpose, you can tweak the levels easier in the edit, if it’s over exposed there’s no detail left to adjust.

3. Never rely on the Flip Out - Controversial topic and I know 50% of you will disagree - but I am amazed when I see people rely completely on the flip out LCD screen. It makes the camera harder to hold, the pressure is all on your forearms which causes aches and pains and the camera can’t be held steady. The Flip out is harder to focus and it can’t be used as a judge of exposure, the brightness of the LCD can be adjusted or knocked (this doesn’t effect exposure). I have seen rushes over exposed throughout due to misjudgement of the flip out.

The LCD is susceptible to the ambient light. If it’s very sunny and contrasty the screen is hard to judge. And it gets worse,  if you aren’t tall, using the screen will make your camera position lower than the average subject so you be looking up their nose. I only use the flip out for low angle or awkward spots where I can’t get my eye to the viewfinder, of if shooting an interview on my own and I need to monitor the shot.

I recommend using the viewfinder eyepiece and setting (via the internal menu) the monitoring screen to black and white.  All Camera Operators using Professional shoulder mounted cameras work with black and white viewfinders. Black and White monitoring makes it easier to check focus, zebras, and contrast levels. By using the viewfinder and therfore pressing the camera to your eye you create a triangle from elbows, to hands to face that helps steady the camera. As the camera is light it’s harder to keep it steady than shoulder mounted cameras, any help you can get to make it steadier is useful.

4. Auto Audio - If I am shooting on the Z1, 90% of the time I won’t be working with a professional sound recordist, normally I’ll have a Runner, Researcher or AP (Assistant Producer) swinging a boom or I’ll be using a radio mic. To cover yourself if you are using just one microphone then set the two audio channels (L and R) differently. Set one channel to manual and ride the level wheel yourself but set the second channel to auto as back up. If the level radically changes and goes over eg. someone starts shouting or there is an explosion (!) the manual channel will go over and be distorted BUT you will have back up on the second channel as the auto mode will limit the levels from peaking.

Got a Z1 shooting question that I haven’t answered? Please add a comment and I will respond.